
I assume Matt was arrested for loitering shortly after this picture was taken, but apparently he likes the bike. A nice smart build - X9, King, Stan's, Fox, Thomson. Pretty much what I would use.
All I have to say is that S&S couplers AND sliding dropouts makes for a heavy frame - but at least you can keep your wallet a little fatter when you fly with your bike. 
Councilman Matt Appelbaum went a step further and said he doesn't want any human access to the property.
"It's not that mountain bikes are the problem," he said. "It's anything that's the problem."
First, if you're somehow not familiar with him, educate yourself on Trogdor.
Well, I think we got there (apologies for the Craigslist-quality photo - it's dark. I'll try to get a better one in the morning.) Small painting in the background is by my good friend Chris (drop him a line and have him paint your favorite mountain!)
Are there drawbacks? Sure. Honestly, I'm still not sure if the chainline will allow smooth shifting at the very high and very low range on the cassette (Shimano designs their mountain bike components for ~425mm chainstays). The frame isn't particularly light (it'll probably just barely break 5 pounds when the powdercoat is on), and some folks wouldn't like the wider q-factor on the cranks necessitated by the 83mm BB shell. Oh, and you need a freeride crank to fit, as well as a rear wheel that's been built or re-dished to fit the offset dropouts.
But for burninating the peasants in their thatched... er, I mean ripping it up on the singletrack, this might be just right. And only Jon will ever know, since the thing is too darn small for me to steal from him.
-Be nice. I see "pros" yell at hikers, cut the trail, refuse to yield to other riders, poach illegal stuff in full view of the general public, and generally act like spoiled children. Remember, if your job is to sell bikes, that 45 year old out for his only bike ride of the week, who just had to jump into the bushes to dodge you, is now a lost sale. Stop and say hi on the trail. Yield. Tell the fat lady how cute her hideous pug is. Pick up Gu wrappers. Smile all the time. There are plenty of places far from the madding crowd where you can get your shred on. Marshall Mesa isn't one of them. 







First, get some 1/4" plate. I used some cheap bar stock from the hardware store (some kind of mild steel); you could also use 4130 or whatever else you think is worthwhile. Remember that you've got to thread the derailleur onto this plate with an M6 bolt - so doing a lot thinner than 1/4" is probably a bad idea if you want to keep from stripping things or having the derailleur fall off.
The specs for where to drill/tap your mounting hole are here. You'll want a minimum of 25mm or so worth of edge for the derailleur to mount up to, anything shorter will allow the derailleur to rotate around the bolt and cause problems.
Once you've drilled and tapped your piece of plate, weld or braze an old piece of seatstay/chainstay/whatever to the back side. Make sure the mounting bolt can thread through the hole freely! Now miter to fit your seat tube and put the derailleur in the correct location. This is easy with a mill and a small fixture (if you want a picture of the fixture, post a comment and I'll get one up - I forgot to take any) or alternately it can pretty easily be done by hand. You'll need to do a little bit of trig to figure out what angle to cut the miter at (and how much, if at all, to offset it if you're doing something odd with the seat tube) but if you've gotten this far, you can probably handle that.
To mount the mount to the frame, I use an old piece of aluminum plate, bolted to the bb, with a second bolt to hold the mount in place on the seat tube (no picture, sorry). The only tricky bit here is to make sure you attach the mount parallel to the BB shell face, so that the derailleur will sit straight when you bolt it on.




Non-suspension corrected rigid fork, sliders, singlespeed only - this is a hardcore bike. In fact, probably too hardcore for me, these days. I'm a suspension sissy more and more - though if I lived somewhere a bit less rocky, I might reconsider. 
Edited: I decided it wasn't particularly fair of me to say bad things about KVA's tubes, when my experience with them (or any stainless) is very limited. Suffice to say that Chris's cross (Kris Kross?) bike never saw the light of day; I built him an OX Platinum bike instead after having numerous problems with the KVA stuff, and I am not offering bikes made with any form of stainless tubing at this time. There are some great builders out there who work with it and do awesome stuff - if you're excited about that, I encourage you to contact one of them.
Chris emailed me with an interesting question about my old 29er downhill bike (if you don't remember it, you can read about it here):
Hi Chris -
Some stuff I'd do differently:
-Design for 140-160mm fork (the current one is built for a 180, and it's WAY too much fork for me), with a tapered steerer (so 44ID head tube).
-ISCG mount (shoulda done that on mine, but was planning to run a front derailleur).
-Shorter chainstays (probably in the 43cm range?) for more manualing/wheelie fun (currently they're 45cm).
-6" or 6.5" rear travel rather than 7" - once again, too much travel for the way I ride, especially with the big wheels.
-Supertherm throughout (mine is only partially Supertherm, as True Temper did not make it in 29er-friendly configurations back then) to save weight and add some strength.
-31.6 or 30.9 seatpost for Joplin/other height adjust posts. Mine is 27.2, and the GravityDropper is a crappy post, IMO.
-Slacker front end (mine is 69 degrees, I'd probably go 67 or 68, especially if using the Fox34 140 Talas so I could crank it down if/when I wanted it to steer quicker).
-1"/25.4 main pivot axle. Mine is 24mm and it's annoying to do the preload. With the 25.4 I could just drive some 1" star nuts into the (hollow) axle and then use 1" headset end caps instead - lighter and stiffer, and easier to work on.
-135 or 142 maxle, rather than non-threaded 150x12. Lighter, just as stiff, easier to deal with when installing the rear wheel.
That's probably about it, but as you can see, it's a pretty extensive list! If I were doing a light-duty DH setup, I'd probably just use a Ventana rear end modified for 6" travel (I just use a longer stroke shock and longer rocker with a normal rear end) and build around a 140 Talas fork. That would be the ultimate freeride setup - 68 degree HTA that goes to 69.5 with the talas cranked down, tapered, ISCG or even Hammerschmidt...
Yes, she took a DAY off of her old record!!!