Showing posts with label supertherm. Show all posts
Showing posts with label supertherm. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 25, 2015

David - done


Another Pinhead fork, too.
Super aggro long front center/slack/low/short chainstay 27.5+?

Another customer bike I'd like for myself. Damn you, Dave!

Dave also has the distinction of being the first to get a boost (110x15) spaced rigid fork. In his case it'll swap out with one of the fancy new Lyrik 27.5+ units. Yes, another dummy axle joins the fleet...

I think for steeps and technical riding, the aggro geometry and big tires is hard to beat. For getting big air? Less great - but Dave could run some 29x2.5 Minions for that kind of thing, should he choose.
A few leaves starting to fall/change!

Geometry below. All supertherm, all stealth, 148x12 with some offset for a dishless rear wheel, etc.

This is the *short travel setting* "XC" mode!

Friday, August 21, 2015

29+ and full suspension - BRAAP

Yes, correct saddle height. I'm a freak.

A few days ago I posted a quick picture of the bike I'm calling "BRAAP". I'll let you decide if that's an acronym, and if so, what it stands for (Big Rowdy Alces Alces Proletarian?) But I can say that taken as a whole, it stands for super, super fun. And yes, full custom full suspension frames are now officially available (priced the same as the Ventana/WW configuration for now at $2500 w/shock), drop me a line for details.

First, the basics. Here's the bike:

BRAAP!

The executive summary here: modern XC geometry, 100mm travel, lots of standover, pretty darn short stays, pretty darn low BB. Designed to just *barely* allow the use of a Thomson dropper post with the saddle clamped at full ~28 degree downward tilt.

I wanted a long-day go-anywhere bike that would be fun for exploring rough/undeveloped trails, as well as snappy and responsive enough to be fun on a lunch ride. It's built super beefy (all Supertherm all the time!) because 1) I wanted to be able to loan it out to buddies/customers without worrying about how big they were, and 2) I crash. Sometimes hard. There's also the fact that honestly, being a weight weenie about a 3" tire bike when you're approaching 40 and have 2 small kids is ridiculous. If I wanted to be faster I'd drink less beer and ride more. The complete bike weighs about 28 pounds with fairly nice but not crazy parts.

And, I'll be blunt: I got what I was going for. And then some (with some inevitable tradeoffs, of course). This is my favorite full suspension bike ever, and I must have owned 30 or so by now.

Loads of Chupacabra clearance
I'll do another post next week for those folks who are interested about the nitty-gritty of the swingarm and seatstays. Suffice to say for now that they're a mixture of straight-gauge 4130 and 304 stainless (for bearing fittings) along with a LOT of probably unnecessary work to attach everything to the dropouts (I'll use rockers next time and for customer bikes - much simpler/lighter/cleaner).

So, how does it ride?

In a word, it's like having a short-travel DH bike on the downhill, and a really capable (albeit not all that light) XC bike on the climbs. It has insane gobs of traction in even the worst off camber gravel type situations. It wheelies and manuals and pops around really nicely (though not as nicely as Stupidmobile, since that bike has a wheelbase that's almost 3" shorter!) It's extremely capable on steep terrain going up or down - no wander on slow techy climbs, tons of confidence on steep roll-ins and rough fast descents.

There are tradeoffs, of course:
-3" tires are pretty slow going uphill unless the terrain is really rough. You won't be getting any Strava PRs on your local dirt road climb on this bike.
-I wanted a very low bb, because I love how low bb bikes ride. In technical stuff when pedaling, pedal strikes can be pretty frequent (and potentially dangerous if you're going fast!)
-They are intact so far, but the bike demands to be ridden really fast on rough gnar, and I'm guessing I'll eventually shred my probably too-light Chupacabra tires.
-Chupacabras (and 100mm travel) aren't great for going off big drops or hitting big jumps at the bike park. To be fair, though, this bike was never intended to be a full-on DH sled and doesn't have the travel or geometry to be ridden that way.

Curved bridge next time!
Some people will also find the combination of larger tires and suspension to be just too much damping out of trail feedback - the ride can feel "numb" on smoother sections of trail and while you might be going really fast - in some cases it actually doesn't feel very fun because the bike is doing so much of the work. That's a line that everyone has to find for themselves, though, and on the trails I tend to like best (rough XC) this bike is perfect.

I'm pretty excited about this bike, not just because it's a blast to ride, but also because I can now do really fun and weird stuff with full suspension bikes (FS fatbike? FS 29er with 400mm chainstays? Super low/high/long/short/fat/whatever? All doable) and let the geek flag fly. Not everyone is going to prefer 29+ (or even fit on it) but that's the nice thing here - I can do 27.5+, 26+, 24" fatbike, 20", mixed wheel sizes... anything.

I'm not about to stop riding Stupidmobile (currently set up as a rigid singlespeed with, natch, a Chupacabra on the front) since Park City has a metric ton of trails that are way too smooth for any form of suspension at all. But when I wander into the shop, this is the bike I usually grab.

Friday, August 14, 2015

Happy Weekend...

... says Stupidmobile 2: Non-Electric Boogaloo.

Details and more photos to come, but some numbers to clue you in: 29x3, 100mm, 42.5cm, 69 degrees, 30.9, goes to 11.

#braaap

Friday, July 03, 2015

Weekly random shop photos

Word on the street is I might have an actual website at some point soon...

In the meantime, I'm still making stuff out of metal.

Getting close

All mitered

Sideways Solidbikes 30.9 plug

Soon you'll be covered up by the downtube...

Friday, June 05, 2015

Oh, what the heck... one more

Sarah's (not my Sarah) new 29x4" bike. Featuring BB wrench counterweight and no shock bushings yet! It's friday...

No decals either? Walt's not even trying...
Pretty normal modern XC geometry, dropper post compatibility, and remote lockouts and adjustable travel out the wazoo. Sooner or later I gotta modernize my own stuff, my own FS bike looks pretty darn obsolete these days.

This thing would fit me pretty well if the seat tube and head tube were both 2" longer

Thursday, June 04, 2015

And another one!

We squeezed Carey onto a 120mm travel 29er... not nearly the squeeze job that Sam's bike is, of course, but still a little work to make him fit.



And no, I didn't finish all these bikes within a few days of each other. They are all just ending up being done or shipped out around the same time because of the vagaries of powdercoating (especially now that the Powderworks of UT guys have, well, fired themselves).

Carey's is more on the XC/all around side (in both geometry/travel and components) than Gal's longer-travel, slacker version. But it's pretty capable of being whatever you want it to with the right fork.





Wednesday, June 03, 2015

When the weird turn pro...

With apologies to Hunter S.  Sam is pretty small in stature. 4'10", to be exact. She wanted a bike that could, as much as possible, do it all (ie XC, trail/enduro, maybe even huck?)

If you go more compact, the seatstays hit the collar!

Even with 26" wheels, 100mm travel was pushing standover too high for comfort... until we went old school (props to Cannondale) and threw the usual front triangle configuration out the window. We also got one of the excellent new Syntace Flatforce stems (*excellent* for folks struggling with handlebar height) Result? Plenty of standover, 100+mm travel, and an appropriate geometry for someone on the short side.

415mm chainstays. Eat your hearts out, tall people.
Here's the print:

Flatforce stem gets the bars level, not shown here.


Tuesday, June 02, 2015

Gal's Slack/Short/Long FS bike... done!

Well, it still needs cable guides. But mostly done.

Really squeezing to get everything to fit with those short stays!

DBinline is hot hot hot - 140mm travel here.
And, of course, the geometry (with magic invisible rear end). No sag shown here. Gal also has a fun 29+ hardtail I built for him a few years back.

Short rear end, slack, long travel... sound familiar? 

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Sunday Quiz!

Which frame is for a 6'10" rider, and which is for a 4'10" one?

Hint: Purple=normal size person.

Thursday, May 07, 2015

Dr. Supertherm or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb

Warning: geekery. Extra warning: framebuilding content.

Supertherm is the bomb. I talk to framebuilders all the time who are trying to find a tube to do something weird, or a tube for a big strong rider, or whatever. They all seem shocked when I suggest True Temper's Supertherm line.

"Isn't that for BMX?"

Isn't that for BMX?
Well, yes. But thanks to the fact that what consitutes a BMX varies wildly, and that it's not very expensive to make a tube 200mm longer, Supertherm tubes are avaiable in lengths up to 750mm - which means they'll work for all sorts of mountain bike projects, thanks to their long, long butts.

Other great stuff about Supertherm:
-They're OX Platinum. But thicker. You could use the BMXSTDT06 as a softball bat, I think. You'd probably break both your wrists, but the tube would be ok.
-Thanks to the 1/.7/1mm butting, the they're stronger AND lighter than using .035" straightgauge.
That's a lot of standover.
-You can weld shock mounts, pivots, and other fun things to them for FS bikes without lots of extra work to make sleeves or gussets (with some exceptions).
-You can make very small frames with them - need a really short toptube? Put the 1mm end at the head tube and the .7 at the seat tube end. Want to run a dropper but don't want a tank of a seat tube? Put the 1mm end at the BB shell and fuse a Solid Bikes 30.9 topper plug into the .7mm.
-You can bend them in a roller, albeit with considerable effort - do curvy tubes to your heart's content.
-Of course, if you want to make a BMX, they're great for that too!

That means if you need to build a super-V style full suspension bike (or fatbike) for someone who is under 5 feet tall, you're good. If I ever get word that TT is going to discontinue it, I'm buying it all.

Friday, July 25, 2014

Learn to Build a Frame with Framebuilding Classes at Waltworks World HQ

2015 Note: Class prices are now $2750 for full experience/Option 2, and $1900 for Fly-on-the-Wall.

Yes, I've decided I finally have enough shop space and live in a cool enough place that people might want to come visit and have me help them build their own bike.

So, what's the deal, you say?

-I'll be teaching a very limited number of one-on-one, one to two week long classes. That's right, one student at a time, Monday through Friday. In rare cases I will consider doing a 2-student lesson if you have a friend who wants to do it at the same time. You can pick a one week intensive (7-8 hours a day) class, or take your time and do more riding/fun and spread it out over 2 weeks (3-4 hours a day).

-We'll collaboratively design your new bike using BikeCAD pro (you'll have unlimited use of the program during your one week class, but if you want to continue using it after that, you'll need to purchase a license from the fine folks at Bicycle Forest). As many of you know, I'm a huge geometry and fit geek - so you'll get to pick my brain and learn all about how I do a bike design, talk through tradeoffs of every variable, and figure out your ideal geometry/wheel size/componentry.

-You'll be given full use of the WW shop machines and tools and my undivided attention to help you operate them. The course fee includes all materials (S and S couplers are an additional $400) needed to complete your frame and I guarantee that you will leave with a rideable and safe frame (this may mean I have to do some aspects of the construction myself if you're having a lot of trouble). You will also have as much practice time and material as you'd like to learn to TIG weld or braze, as well as unlimited use of BikeCAD pro to design bikes to your heart's content.

-I'll be offering 2 pricing options:


Option 1: $1900 - Fly on the Wall. This is the watch-and-learn but no actual building option. If you've always wanted to see how I build a frame but don't want to actually do it yourself, come hang out and watch me build yours!

-In your spare time, enjoy our 500+ miles of singletrack, right out the back door (or, in the winter, the 7 ski resorts within a 30 minute drive). Park City is the only IMBA gold-level ride center in the world and you can make great riding vacation out of your trip. I'm happy to provide info on local trails and yes, I want to ride with you!
-Build your bike up and ride it when it's still warm from the torch (ok, that's an exaggeration). But if you're interested in test riding your bike before it even gets powdercoated, we'll order parts in advance and assemble so you can test ride right here in UT.
-Super excited about building after watching for a few hours? Upgrade at any time to:


Option 2: $2750 - You Build It, Walt Helps. This is the real business - you do it all, and I provide as much help/instruction/encouragement as it takes to make sure you end up with a great frame. Be ready to work hard!
-All materials included. If you blow a hole in a tube, I'll hand you another one, no problem. Need weird dropouts or unusual BB shell or a curved tube? Again, it's all included with the exception of couplers (if you want them). 880t or ER70 welding rod, silver brazing wire, flux, argon - it's all included.
-Build anything you want. Dirt jumper? Crazy slack/short 29er? 650b? 36er? Time trial bike? Fattie? We can do any size of seatpost/dropper, any fork, curve tubes, do any unusual geometry or use any unusual component. The world is your oyster. Tandems and full suspension bikes cost extra, though!

-Learn the basics of TIG, fillet brazing, and lug work (or just one) and practice as much as you'd like on my professional level equipment. Unlimited practice scrap/tubing is available for your use/destruction.
-If you're really struggling, I will step in and help you finish any task necessary so that your bike ends up safe and fun.
-Just as with Option 1, you'll be in mountain bike heaven and have time to ride. We can assemble your new bike for a test ride or two while you're here as well as long as we order parts in advance.
-In some cases I will ask you to do "homework" before arriving to familiarize yourself with some basic movements for welding. This can include sending you a big box of mitered scraps for practice if you have access to welding equipment (check with your local maker space, DIY associations, community college, etc), recommendations on equipment, etc. Full phone/email support for you while you start practicing on your own.
-If you have zero fabrication/welding experience and/or want to make sure you have plenty of time to ride, I recommend a 2 week (10 day) class in which we meet for 4 hours a day. This will give your brain more time to process what's going on, you won't get as exhausted, and you'll be more relaxed and have more time to enjoy the mountains.


What's NOT included?


-Transportation to Park City. We're only 25 minutes from the SLC international airport so flying is easy. Or you could make a road trip out of it. Within the Park City area, there is an extensive network of bike paths and a free bus system - so it's up to you whether you'll want to rent a car.
-Lodging. There are great deals in the summer, in winter it'll be a little pricier. During mud season (April/May) it's practically free (and yes, there's riding that is dry by then).
-Parts to assemble your bike. You are welcome to salvage and bring your own used stuff, or you can take advantage of my super-smoking parts deals and buy them from me.
-Fork building instruction. If you'd like to build a rigid fork as well please contact me to discuss - this will cost extra money and take extra time unless you are a very quick study.
-Loaner bikes/skis. If my bikes fit you (not bloody likely, I'm shaped like a T-rex, but you never know) you are welcome to borrow them. It's more likely that you'll need to bring your own or rent if you want to ride in your free time before your frame is done. Same story with skis (got a size 45 foot and like skate skiing? You're in luck. Otherwise, not so much).
-Warranty. If you're building it yourself, I will do my best to help you make a safe, long-lasting frame - but it won't be a Waltworks (it'll be a yournamehereworks) and as such you won't get any warranty protection if something breaks. If you are doing fly-on-the-wall, a warranty is of course included.
-Decals. A one-color powdercoat is included in the price, but decals and graphics are not. I can put you in touch with expert decal folks, or you can have any number of online services make you some vinyl decals if you'd like.
-Shipping. If you choose to have the frame powdercoated here, you'll need to pay to have it shipped to you when it's done (or come pick it up).

Ok, I want to do it! How do I get on the schedule?

-I'm not going to do set dates - instead I will schedule students on a case by case basis. If you're interested in what times might work, please email or call me to discuss.
-A non-refundable deposit of $500 is required to schedule your class. If we've agreed on dates and you need to make a change or delay your visit, that's fine, but I won't be able to guarantee when I can fit you in again.
-I reserve the right to end a lesson early (with no refund) if you are endangering yourself or others with the equipment (the usual shop rules apply - safety glasses, tie back long hair, no loose clothing, etc). This also means that once a beer gets opened - no more metal work for the day. Many of the machines in my shop can maim or kill you, and I will insist that you follow my instructions regarding using them safely.
-If a friend wants to stop by to see what you are doing, that's great, but you can't get a two-fer by just having someone bum around while we're working - I'll charge extra for extra students on a case-by-case basis. The shop is really not big enough for crowds of people so I'll generally insist on one-on-one instruction.


Ready to commit? Hit the button to put down your $500 deposit, or call/email me for other payment options (you can change your mind about which option you want at any time, so if you're not sure, don't worry about figuring it out immediately). 

Choose your adventure: